The politically conscious and pleasure-seeking sides of our current food obsession aren’t necessarily at odds–just ask Alice Waters.

But they do sometimes yield uncomfortable incongruities. Take today’s New York Times Dining section.

One of the page’s top stories (”Schools’ Toughest Test: Cooking”) describes the movement to replace reheating with actual cooking in New York’s public school cafeterias. That is, to produce foodie-approved free lunches in the sort of environment where uncooked meat is forbidden and “grape…

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